AntiqID

Reference guide

Porcelain and pottery marks — how to identify any factory

The most common marks you meet on European and American ceramics, with the details that separate a genuine factory piece from a later reissue.

Published · 2026-07-14 · 9 min read

Unlike silver, ceramic marks are not standardised by law. Each factory chose its own symbol, changed it over the years, added painter and modeller initials, and sometimes copied a rival to piggy-back on its reputation. The good news: most factories are recognisable once you know what to look for.

Meissen (Germany)

The crossed swords in underglaze cobalt blue are the most copied mark in ceramics. Genuine Meissen swords are painted freehand, sit slightly askew, and vary in width. Late 19th-century pieces added dots, stars, or slashes to indicate periods, and the words 'Meissen' or 'Meissener Porzellan' appear on 20th-century wares.

Watch for the pommels: original Meissen pommels are round, painters' brush strokes are visible under a loupe, and the blue often bleeds a hair into the glaze. Perfectly geometric or overly crisp swords are a strong sign of a copy.

Sèvres and Limoges (France)

Sèvres used interlaced Ls (for Louis) plus a date letter from 1753. The mark was heavily faked in the 19th century — genuine early Sèvres has soft-paste porcelain with a warm ivory tone, and the mark was painted before firing, not applied over the glaze.

Limoges is a region, not a factory. Look for the specific manufacturer: Haviland, Bernardaud, GDA, T&V Depose. 'Limoges France' alone is a regional label. Modern gilded blanks are common — the value is in the maker and the painter's signature, not the word.

Wedgwood and English pottery

Wedgwood is impressed into the clay before firing, not printed. From 1860 the mark added a three-letter date code — knowing the sequence lets you date a piece to the exact year. 'Made in England' appears after 1891, 'Bone China' after roughly 1912.

Doulton, Royal Crown Derby, Minton and Spode each have well-documented date-code systems. If a mark is elaborately printed in colour under the glaze, chances are it is later than a simple black or brown impressed mark.

Delft and Dutch tin-glaze

'Delft' as a category is broad — most blue-and-white you meet is 19th- or 20th-century Dutch or German inspired by the original 17th-century factories. Real early Delft has soft, uneven paint, kiln imperfections, and a chalky feel to the tin glaze.

The best-known modern maker is Royal Delft (De Porceleyne Fles), which uses a stylised bottle mark with the year in Roman numerals. If a piece is dated 1900 or later, this is almost certainly what you have.

Rosenthal, KPM and 20th-century Germany

Rosenthal used variants of a crown-and-crossed-lines mark. The colour of the mark helps date the piece — green for first quality, red for seconds, blue for factory decoration.

KPM (Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur Berlin) uses the sceptre in underglaze blue plus a red or blue orb. The mark alone signals a highly collectable factory; combined with the painter's signature, values move sharply.

Studio pottery and unmarked wares

Signed studio pottery — Bernard Leach, Lucie Rie, Hans Coper, Peter Voulkos — reaches serious prices, and the signature is often a subtle initial cut into the base. Confirming a studio pottery attribution takes multiple photos of the base, the throwing lines, the glaze and any drips.

Unmarked or single-initial pieces are common. Without a mark, AntiqID leans on shape, glaze chemistry visible under raking light, and the way the piece was thrown or moulded. When evidence is thin, the app says so instead of inventing a maker.

Fast-reference

  • Meissen: hand-painted crossed swords, slightly asymmetric
  • Sèvres: interlaced Ls with date letter, painted before firing
  • Wedgwood: impressed marks with three-letter date code from 1860
  • Royal Delft: bottle-shaped mark with Roman numeral year
  • KPM: sceptre in underglaze blue plus red or blue orb
  • Rosenthal: crown mark colour indicates quality grade

Identify any porcelain mark with AntiqID

Photograph the mark and let AntiqID compare it against factory catalogues to name the maker, the era and the collector interest.

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